I think I might become a surfer...or at least enjoy "trying" to surf!

A few weeks back I met my friends Stacy and Melissa (aka Kirsch) in Encinitas to go surfing. They both surf and I thought I would give it another shot, since I have only tried about 3 other times in my life. AND (drum role please)...I REALLY liked it.


Kirsch, Stacy and I after having dinner, watching the sunset and then off to a movie. They are great dates! :)


So beautiful! God done real good!

Stacy, Kirsch and I went surfing a little after I met them on Friday (they had been there since Thursday) and I got into and up onto several waves/post-breaking waves and road them successfully. In fact, one time I road a wave all the way into the shore and realized that I needed to actually get off the board before it baned itself into the sand. So, as brilliant as I am I decided to not jump off and onto my feet but jump off and land on my @$$. Wait, what?!?! Why the heck did I do that? I have no freakin clue but I pretty much layed there as the current tried to pull me out to sea and then push me back into the shore as I then lay on my back in about 2 inches of water. Yeah, it was brilliant. I am pretty sure the lady on her cell phone only feet away from me was thinking the same thing.


A few hours into surfing the leash somehow wrapped around my big toe and ripped my toe nail out from the root on the right side. I had to then cut as much of the nail off that had detached and voala...a beautiful toe I had/have. And yeah, it hurt!


After the toenail incident I wasn't able to surf anymore because I was scared I would bang my tender toe and say words that might offend ;). Which meant that Friday morning I was the photographer for Stacy as she road the waves and Kirsch stayed back at the hotel and slept.

During this trip I realized that all the other attempts I had made at surfing not to mention the times I turned down the chance to try and surf, I was REALLY scared. But I wasn't scared of surfing as much as I was of failing. I was scared to get out there and look like and idiot. But, as I am seeking freedom in life from the fears that grip me I decided that surfing could represent freedom if I let it. It has. I have since been one other time and can't wait to get out on a board again. I love the peace that sitting out in the ocean holds, the challenge that riding a waves represents and the fun of "trying" something new. I love the beauty of the ocean and the power of God that it represents.

I think I might become a surfer...or at least enjoy "trying" to surf!